Rock Climbing at Smith Rock State Park, Oregon
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Monkey Face

Featured route: West Face Variation (5.9 A1)Monkey Face, Smith Rock Climbing Guides, Terebonne, Oregon

The name definitely fits! Monkey Face is a 350 foot pillar that overhangs on all sides. And it looks like a giant monkey. The formation contains some of the most difficult climbs in the world, including “Just Do It” (5.14c), and the super thin “East Face” crack (5.13d). Perhaps you saw Ron Kauk climbing the exposed arête of the “Backbone” (5.13) on Wide World of Sports back in the eighties. If these are too stiff for you, don’t worry; there are several classic routes that reach the top of the Monkey. Be sure to check out the “West Face Variation” (5.9 A1). This outstanding line contains four pitches of varied crack and face climbing, ranging from small roofs to clean stemming corners. Additionally, many clients do their first aid climbing on the exciting “Young Pioneers” pitch, which follows a bolt ladder up an overhanging face into the Monkey’s mouth. The route is known for its exposure, especially at the intimidating “panic point”, where climbers step out of the Monkey’s mouth for a short 5.8 stint high over the airy east face. After reaching the top of this rather unlikely summit, get ready for the famous descent, a 190 foot free-hanging rappel past the east face, where you can scope your next 5.15. This is a climb to remember, and a real accomplishment.

Experience required  Prior climbing experience up to 5.8 in difficulty
Max. group size per Guide  Two
Time on route  4-7 hours


Smith Rock Climbing Guides Inc., Smith Rock State Park, Terrebonne, OR 97760 (541) 788-6225